Telica – Heading north it soon becomes clear we are in Sandanista country marked by red and black telegraph poles alongside the road. Telica is dominated by the Sandinista National Liberation Front (FSLN).  Elections are due soon and it will be closely fought, the last election widely believed locally to have been rigged.

Nicaraguan Center for Human Rights believe that President Ortega ordered the NNP to allow the FSLN supporters to conduct their attacks against the civil society groups without impediment. Memories of the war not that distant. We have been advised best not to raise the subject.

 Nicaraguan back-country towns there are numerous horses tied up on corners outside stores. It feels a lot like driving into a old wild west town – mostly one story buildings, hot, quiet, dusty semi cobbled roads, people sitting in the shade, dark doorways, distant music, smoke and a fair few of horses.

Almost no women drive the very few cars that there are; we stick out like sombrero’d Mexicans at Ascot. People, once they have got though staring at us as oddities are very friendly, giving us directions on to Achuapa.