I can still see Bude GCHQ. No matter how far I walk, each day it is still there on the horizon like a host of alien space ships. Apparently 25% of internet traffic goes through there, so maybe this post too…. hi Bude spies, I am not carrying any bomb making equipment, unless stink bombs count.
Today I’m on my way to Tintagel. Last night I had a wild camp and have to admit it was pretty cold. Mostly from the ground underneath, I have put down as many layers as possible between me and the ground but more are needed. So really delighted to find a Craghoppers store in tiny Boscastle. I have bought another warmer jacket.
Boscastle is lovely and no signs of the flood. The harbour is a quirky inlet. So pleased to get here, The Riverside restaurant staff friendly, warm, not expensive; it hits all the right buttons and I fill up on their seafood chowder and a roll, before heading onwards to Tintagel. Would happily stay here but I need a cheap campsite not a hotel. I’m betting on some wet weather in the coming week so need to stay outdoors and as cheap as possible for as long as possible.
Tintagel takes forever to appear even though on the map it’s just around the headland. When I have a definite destination for the night it is always like this. I finally make it to the campsite where the owners Patrick and Cecily welcome me. They are surprised to see me, they are closing soon for the season. The last backpacker they had was three weeks ago. They warn me of storms and to make sure my tent is battened down, as they lay awake nights worrying about people like me. A few weeks ago they had a couple of tents blown away in the night. I assure them I will be fine, and if I do get blown away at least I am on a campsite and not wild camping.
The Headland Campsite is great. I recommend it… super clean, hot showers… all I need. Patrick gives me pointers to the best local pub for proper pub grub stodge, good for walkers.
Have to say I really like what I have seen of Tintagel, people previously said it was a tourist trap… I missed the castle.. but from what I saw, nice! Some life about the place, not just tourists.
I settle in to The King Arthur’s Arms for dinner. The barmaid checks where she had put me is ok, alongside some rowdy locals. All good and they soon head home leaving a couple of occupied tables, the four of us strangers soon join together.
Frank is visiting and meeting up with his family the next day. Sarah and Brian, both recently divorced and now together, have bought a Cornish bolthole in Treknow.
Frank, if you are reading this… hope you have set yourself off on an adventure. I am definitely not the most adventurous person you have met and if you still think I am, you need to meet some more people!!! Benidorm is an adventure the first time only, not the tenth. Try The Adventurists for some ideas. Rickshaw Run the most fun possible on three wheels! Loved it, summary here.
A wee telling of our life stories and soon I have an invitation from Sarah and Brian to pop in to theirs the following morning in Treknow. “Come have breakfast, we’ll wash your clothes! Have a shower!” Love love love people like this. So open and generous!
They meet me walking their dog on the cliffs early the next morning. Home to theirs, which is a bungalow they have renovated. Oh what a bungalow! Sea views, open plan, heated floors and indoor swimming pool! I’m envious.
Sarah is a sports therapist masseuse and Brian a professional rower, which is how they met.
I just about manage to leave by midday and head to Port Isaac, backpack full of clean clothes and tummy full of breakfast. Sarah has warned me of the five steep valleys I need to pass to get there, and she not joking. None of my photos do the valleys justice.
No photo justice either for steep drops to beach. Spot the surfers (they are not in the water)
End of day are very wobbly legs.